한샛별 Saet Byeol Han , 구현아 Hyun A Gu , 김수지 Su Ji Kim , 김혜진 Hye Jin Kim , 권순식 Soon Sik Kwon , 김해수 Hae Soo Kim , 전소하 So Ha Jeon , 황준필 Jun Pil Hwang , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

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Abstract

In this work, comparative study on antioxidative activities of extracts from Glycyrrhiza uralensis (G. uralensis) produced in Korea and in China and Glycyrrhiza glabra (G. glabra) produced in Uzbekistan was conducted. Among three origins, 50% ethanol extracts (21.15 μg/mL), ethyl acetate fraction (29.15 μg/mL) and aglycone fraction (3.26 μg/mL) of G. uralensis from Korea showed the higher free radical (1,1-phenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀) than extracts from other origins. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of extracts from three origins on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system were investigated using luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay 50% ethanol extract (1.00 μg/mL) and ethyl acetate fraction (0.34 μg/mL) of G. uralensis from China showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. 50% ethanol extract and aglycone fraction of G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts from three origins showed cellular protective effects in a concentration dependent manner (5 ∼ 50 μg/mL). Aglycone fraction of G. uralensis from Korea (τ₅₀ = 847.4 min)especially showed cellular protective effects four times higher than that from China (τ₅₀ = 194.3 min). These results indicate that G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts, which have been used as whitening agent, could be applicable to functional cosmetic ingredient as a natural antioxidant. Judging from the prominent cellular protecitve effects, it is concluded that G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts can protect the skin from ¹O₂ and various ROS induced by UV.

Key Words

Glycyrrhiza uralensis, Glycyrrhiza glabra, photoaging, antioxidative activity, cellular protective effect

천유리 Yuri Cheon , 황정욱 Jung Wook Hwang , 이희삼 Heui Sam Lee , 윤세영 Seiyoung Yun , 최용수 Yong-soo Choi , 강상진 Sangjin Kang

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Abstract

We studied the anti-oxidant and anti-aging activities of Sericinjam Gland Hydrolysate (SJGH) in the human dermal fibroblasts. SJGH effectively defended cell death and ROS generation under high H₂O₂ in human dermal fibroblasts. Moreover SJGH reduced the expression of SA-β-Gal and MMP-1 under low concentration of H₂O₂ whereas biosynthesis of procollagen-Ⅰ was increased. This results demonstrate the anti-oxidant and anti-aging activities of SJGH. SJGH could be a good candidate for anti-aging cosmetics ingredient.

Key Words

Sericinjam, procollagen I, MMP-1, fibroblast, oxidative damage

이수민 Su Min Lee , 김진은 Jin Eun Kim , 오명진 Myoung Jin Oh , 이주동 Joo Dong Lee , 전유진 You-jin Jeon , 김보라 Bora Kim

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Abstract

To investigate the efficacy of enzymatic extract of Ecklonia cava and its polyphenol extract (AG-DK) as cosmetic ingredients, the anti-oxidative effect, anti-glycation effect, anti-melanogenic effect, and anti-inflammatory effect of the extracts were evaluated in vitro. The enzymatic extract of E. cava (SC50 42.9 ppm) and AG-DK (SC50 6.4 ppm) showed a strong DPPH free radical scavenging activity. The anti-glycation ability of the enzymatic extract of E. cava and AG-DK was tested using bovine serum albumin (BSA), which inhibited the formation of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) in the BSA/glucose system. The enzymatic extract of E. cava (IC50 97.2 ppm) and AG-DK (IC50 7 ppm) had inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity. Moreover, the enzymatic extract of E. cava and AG-DK had an anti-inflammatory effect through the inhibition of nitricoxide (NO) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE₂). These findings suggest that the enzymatic extract of E. cava and AG-DK can be applied to skin-care products as cosmetic ingredients.

Key Words

Ecklonia cava extracts, anti-oxidant, anti-glycation, tyrosinase inhibition, anti-inflammation

김윤석 Yun Seog Kim , 박수진 Su Jin Park

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Abstract

The use of protein-crosslinking enzyme, transglutaminase, as a biocatalyst in the processing of hair offers a variety of exciting and realistic possibilities which include improving the rigidity of hair fibers. Among the transglutaminases from many different living organisms, the microbial enzyme prepared from Streptomyces mobaraensis, significantly increased the tensile strength of hair by 15.64% compared to a control when it was applied to damaged hair. This indicates that transglutaminase can restore the negative effects of washing hair with shampoo. Also transglutaminase improved the characteristics of hair surface, which could be useful for increase of luster and reduction of friction force of hair surfaces.

Key Words

transglutaminase, hair, enzyme, cosmetic, tensile strength

김잔디 Jandi Kim , 이해란 Hailan Li , 정효순 Hyo-soon Jeong , 윤혜영 Hye-young Yun , 백광진 Kwang Jin Baek , 권년수 Nyoun Soo Kwon , 최혜령 Hye-ryung Choi , 박경찬 Kyoung-chan Park , 김동석 Dong-seok Kim

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Abstract

To substitute animal test, skin equivalents (SEs) have been developed for skin irritation and corrosion test. Recently, we have developed new SEs containing Cervi cornus Colla (CCC). In the present study, we used the SEs for cutaneous cytotoxicity test. Sodium dodecylsulfate (SDS) or sodium carbonate was applied to the SEs, and the epidermal damage by H&E and immunohistochemical stains was evaluated. Our results showed that SDS or sodium carbonate affected the epidermal part of SEs containing CCC in a dose-dependent manner and decreased the expression of p63. It is concluded that SEs containing CCC could be used for an alternative model of animal test and would be greatly helpful in the development of in vitro irritation and corrosion test.

Key Words

in vitro irritation test, non-animal test, cutaneous cytotoxicity, human skin equivalents, Cervi cornus Colla

이성훈 Sung Hoon Lee , 민대진 Dae Jin Min , 나용주 Yong Joo Na , 심종원 Jongwon Shim , 권이경 Lee Kyoung Kwon , 조준철 Jun-cheol Cho , 이해광 Hae Kwang Lee

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Abstract

Bicationic minerals such as calcium and magnesium are known to protect the skin barrier. The principal objective of this study was to evaluate the skin barrier protective effects of mineral water, which is composed of calcium, magnesium, manganese, and fluorine. UVB irradiation induces a destruction of tight junction (TJ) components. The TJ permeability barrier was also disrupted by UVB irradiation. We employed a skin equivalent model to assess the efficacy of mineral water in this regard. Mineral water maintained the structure of the skin equivalents following UVB irradiation. The results of the TJ permeability assay showed that mineral water helped to maintain the TJ permeability barrier after UVB irradiation in skin equivalent model. Mineral water supported the structure of TJ components and restored the occludin protein level in differentiated normal human keratinocytes after UVB irradiation. In conclusion, we found out the protective effect of mineral water against UVB irradiation.

Key Words

mineral water, skin barrier, tight junction, skin equivalent, UVB irradiation

고남경 Nam Kyung Go , 이진실 Jin Sil Lee , 이신영 Shin Young Lee , 허원 Won Hur

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Abstract

Aloe gel microcapsule was prepared by dehydrating dispersed aloe gel droplets in the form of W/O emulsion using a vacuum evaporator. The microcapsules remained in stable suspensions after washing with mineral oil and had a homogeneous spherical structure with diameter less than 6.4 μm. The microcapsule suspension in mineral oil (> 41%) exhibited a step increase in viscosity and shear-thinning but not showed thixotropic behavior with a yield stress higher than 300 Pa. The dense suspension appeared to be semi-solid as the microcapsule fraction increases and to be stable after heat treatment at 105 ℃ for 15 min. In conclusion, the dense suspension composed of gel microcapsules is expected to provide a basic cosmetic formulation that can be applied to develop various types of aloe gel cosmetic products.

Key Words

aloe gel, microcapsule, cosmetic formulation, suspension rheology, cream base

조완구 Wan Goo Cho , 김은희 Eun Hee Kim , 전봉주 Bong-ju Jeon , 차영권 Young-kweon Cha , 박선기 Seon-ki Park

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Abstract

Applications of nano-emulsion for cosmetics as a means of promoting dermal absorption have been the subject of interest. In this study, the stability of nano-emulsions prepared by low-energy emulsification method and varying the composition of raw materials was investigated. By measuring the particle size of the nano-emulsion against time, the stability of nano-emulsions prepared by adding polyol to water phase was increased significantly compared with the nano-emulsions prepared by adding polyol to ethanol phase. The speed of adding ethanol phase to water phase did not have a significant impact on the particle size and stability. Depending on the type of oil, stability was not affected. However, there would be a correlation between the initial size of the nano-emulsion droplets and the molecular weight and polarity of the oil. Stability and the initial particle size according to the type of polyols showed a similar trend except 1,2 hexanediol. The initial droplet size was affected by the concentration of surfactant and oil. However, the initial droplet size did not change against time. Concentration of ethanol was observed to have a significant impact on the initial particle size and stability.

Key Words

nanoemulsions, manufacturing process, self-emulsification, stability

이동원 Dong Won Lee , 김영호 Young Ho Kim , 정은지 Eun Ji Jung , 이상길 Sang Gil Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

Lip make-up products can be easily taken into body with food. For this reason, those products are requires to meet lots of qualifications compared with other cosmetic products. In addition, concerns about safety on synthesized tar pigments is constantly issued. Thus, demand of natural pigments is gradually increased and many kinds of natural pigments have been developed. However, there are some problems when natural pigments are applied to cometic products instead of synthetic ones. There is a reason that most of natural pigments consist of hydrophilic materials of sort of anthocyanin, but the existing lip make-up products is anhydrous oil dispersion type without water consisting oil and wax. Therefore, when watersoluble natural pigments are applied to anhydrous lip make-up products, color expression is lower and phase separation occurs due to the instability of the product. In addition, natural pigments have disadvantages that they can easily change by pH, heat and sunlight. There are troubles of stability because it is not easy to adjust for these factors in case of anhydrous forms. Aim of study is to develop lip make-up products which have not only safe to human but being high in expression of color by using natural pigments and securing stability of colorant as natural pigments are offered to polyol in oil emulsion. Then, lip make-up products which have heavy moisture while having not dryness that is created when the moisture evaporates are developed.

Key Words

natural pigment, polyol in oil emulsion, lip makeup, moisturizing lipstick, moisturizing lipstick

추정하 Jung Ha Choo , 이상화 Sang Hwa Lee

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Abstract

Chrysin (5,7-dihydroxyflavone) is a natural flavonoid found in various plants and foods such as propolis and honey. It has been reported that chrysin has various biological effects including antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer. In this study, we investigated the effect of chrysin on the transcriptional activity of VDR in human epidermal keratinocytes by performing dual-luciferase assay. Chrysin significantly induced the transcriptional activity of VDR in a concentration-dependent manner. The VDR mRNA expression was investigated by quantitative real time PCR and chrysin increased the VDR mRNA expression in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. We also found that chrysin increased the expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers such as keratin 10, involucrin and filaggrin. Therefore, the results suggest that chrysin can stimulate the differentiation of human keratinocytes by increasing transcriptional activity of VDR.

Key Words

chrysin, vitamin D, transcriptional activity, VDR, keratinocyte differentiation